Installing Gas Line

Discussion in 'Horn Depot' started by 01 grad, Apr 7, 2010.

  1. 01 grad

    01 grad 250+ Posts

    So I want to get natural gas to my kitchen for a new dual fuel range. I will be doing this myself. Not too worried about making the pipe connections and will make sure to thoroughly check for leaks.

    My plan right now is to tap into main line leading into house, run up exterior brick wall, through eve, straight run through attic, drop down kitchen wall the range is located on before new backsplash goes in. Kitchen is in interior of home so tunneling around exterior and up through exterior wall is out.

    Would it be better to tap into gas line at furnace or water heater? They are a little closer to kitchen and would be a shorter run through attic, I am worried about adequate gas flow that way. Anyone have any idea on keeping this up to code. I will be consulting a professional and checking with local code enforcement before moving forward, just would like to hear your initial input. Thanks.
  2. brntorng

    brntorng 2,500+ Posts

    I'm a DIY'er and that's one of the few jobs I wouldn't tackle. The consequences of a leak or other mistake are too severe. If you're in Austin, call Union Jack Plumbing for an estimate to have it done right--which means safely and to code. I've learned things about plumbing from watching Nick, the owner, that you'll never learn elsewhere.
  3. 01 grad

    01 grad 250+ Posts

    I understand the danger. Not worried because I will be applying for a permit and having subsequent leak test by city inspector.

    I've had a few quotes for the work ranging between 1500-3000. Not gonna pay that when material cost at home depot is ~$150
  4. NickDanger

    NickDanger 2,500+ Posts

    Some may know Nick and some may appreciate the danger, but very few know and appreciate me.
  5. BigWill

    BigWill 2,500+ Posts

    Do you have any specs on what the new range demands in terms of pressure/flow?

    I would think you would want to place a T next to the WH and install a pressure gauge. See what the pressure looks like when the WH is going full blast.
  6. Dead Horse

    Dead Horse 250+ Posts

    I'm all for doing things to save money but working on gas lines is not a place I would try to save a few bucks.
  7. 01 grad

    01 grad 250+ Posts

    Thanks BigWill. Since it is dual-fuel, I believe gas demand is relatively low - cooktop/grill are all that demand gas.

    Coming from the water heater would not only save me several feet on the attic run, but also spare me the task of coming in through outside of house. I guess it may be worth tapping in there and testing pressure.

    This is what spec sheet says:

    "Gas Supply Pressure: The maximum gas supply
    pressure to the regulator should never exceed 14"
    (34.9 mb) WC; .5 psi (3.5 kPa) for natural and LP gas.
    The minimum line pressure is 7" (17.5 mb) WC for
    natural gas and 11" (27.4 mb) WC for LP gas."
  8. i think it's definitely better to tee off at an existing appliance (water heater, furnace). are you going to hard pipe it or poly?
    the city inspector won't test the line. he'll check your test.
  9. accuratehorn

    accuratehorn 10,000+ Posts

    I did a lot of repairs at home, and was contemplating doing the new gas line to the new tankless hot water heater, but due to impending freakoutness by the spouse, hired a plumber to do the installation.
    Home Depot does sell the black pipe gas line and the connections, and you can tighten the pipe threads with a pipe wrench, using the pipe sealant they sell.
    You want adequate gas flow to the new stove. Each item that uses gas decreases the amount available at the last item on the line, which sounds like the stove. Usually there is a 1" line coming from the meter up into the attic, then there may be a smaller pipe coming down to the water heater or furnace.
    If you tap off the smaller line there may be inadequate flow to your stove. You need the correct answer to the pipe sizing question. There may be a way to calculate it in the stove installation manual.
    I assume you know how to shut the gas off at the meter. Apparently some meters don't just have the valve exposed where you use a wrench and turn it off to the whole house. These require a call to the gas company for assistance.
    Don't know if you should tackle this or not.
    I do have one question, though-who is this eve you are planning to route a pipe through? She might not approve of your plans.
  10. 77ASE

    77ASE < 25 Posts

    If you're not licensed, your locale may not issue you a permit. Mine wouldn't. Make sure you don't undersize the pipe. The Link
  11. Perham1

    Perham1 2,500+ Posts

  12. 01 grad

    01 grad 250+ Posts

    No, I'd rather have an electric coil cooktop. Our range will be seeing heavy use and I was afraid the flat surface would not hold up. The saute is very difficult because burners automatically turn off when pan is not in contact. You are also limited in the types of pans you can use.

    Kitchen redo has been planned and I've already bought a Wolf 36" w/ infrared grill. This is the second house I have bought this range for and I'm not ever going back.
  13. accuratehorn

    accuratehorn 10,000+ Posts

    Yeah, Austin codes have gotten much more restrictive fairly recently, according to the contractors that we used for some of the work on our house. I got a permit for some things done, and did others myself, and I admit a few things were done without a permit, and I'm not sure if it was required or not. It makes doing any project very expensive.
    I see the reason for the regulations in a way, but in another way it makes it almost impossible to do things yourself legally on your own home that you are able to do.
    One question-doesn't your main gas line go up into the attic, and remain full size until near the water heater and/or furnace? Wouldn't it be easier and cleaner looking to take it apart there and add the new line? We had a tee fitting there that reduced the line size, we took the tee out and installed a full size tee, and went down to the new water heater with an adequate sized pipe. This was on the plumber's recommendation.
  14. UTEE

    UTEE 1,000+ Posts

    The above suggestion makes the most sense to me. As long as you have reasonable access to your attic, it would be best to tee off the 1" trunk line up there.
  15. i would think the easiest by far would be the gas tight/ward flex piping. the connections are much more difficult but you seem pretty confident and are having your material/install/test inspected by a code official.
  16. accuratehorn

    accuratehorn 10,000+ Posts

    I am guessing the "code official" will not be inspecting the work unless a licensed plumber does the job. I think that is how it works in Austin. You either have to do it to code, or do it without getting a permit.
  17. i'm not sure either but the "code official" inspects any work that is permitted and if the homeowner is allowed to pull one it will be inspected.

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